Surfing Southern Africa: An Introduction

Do not go gentle into that good night is something I’m sure you’ve all heard and something I can promise you, you will not hear here again. Not because these words are poorly written but rather because I’ve created this platform to document and explore surfing and its related themes as opposed to mid-20th century poetry.

Anyway, more to the point. As I’m sure most of you know (the grand ‘you’ refering to my parents and a handful of close friends. Haha), I’ve decided to structure the first half of my year around surfing the South African coast and its nearby surrounds, starting in Mozambique and ending up in Namibia. This idea was born out of a love for this country, its people, and of course, its waves. The more time I spend here, and the more I improve my surfing, the greater my appreciation for the place I’ve grown up in and the plethora of uncrowded, world class waves it has to offer. From the sand bottomed point breaks of the South Coast to the icey barrels of the Cape, we’re blessed with diversity and perfection (It’s a bit corny I know, but in truth, I’ve travelled all the way to The Maldives to be reminded of just how good we have it).

(Case in point)

As I’ve mentioned, the plan is to start in Mozambique and end in Namibia, but I thought I’d share a more detailed outline of the somewhat tenuous plan as a precursor for what’s to come.

Enjoyable surfing depends on good quality waves which in turn depend on weather systems, tides etc. These factors are more favourable in different parts of the country at different times of the year. Luckily, it just so happens that these ‘wave-rich’ periods map a predictable path down from Mozambique through the east coast of South Africa, up the west coast and into Namibia as the year progresses. Beginning in January, the warm waters northeast of Madagascar provide the perfect breeding ground for tropical cyclones. Forming between 5-30° south of the equator, in waters above 27°, these weather systems hurtle down in a south westerly direction, slamming into the Mozambican coastline, bringing large, easterly swells, perfect for the country's otherwise dormant setups. While consistent in their provision of sizeable swell, tropical cyclones often bring strong winds, producing small pockets of high quality, windless surf. Consequently, the chances of getting “skunked” are precariously high, adding to the risks and rewards of Mozambican surf trips.

These cyclonic weather systems continue into early March, petering out as the tropical waters cool. At which point, the north coast of KZN starts to improve as temperatures drop, producing more consistent early morning offshore winds as the southerly swells begin their march up the coast from Cape Town. Heading into May/June, the Wild Coast, Eastern Cape and Western Cape all start to light up with consistent swell and favourable winds - a symptom of the cold fronts that pepper the Mother City during the early winter months. The biggest of these swells make their way up across the Namibian boarder, exploding on the Skeleton Coast, home to one of the fiercest sand bottom lefts on the planet. A wave which will hopefully serve as the end point of my journey.

(The south westerly movement of tropical cyclones (above) contrasts that of the cold fronts (below), producing swell from a completely different direction)

If all goes to script, I’ll be based between Durban and Cape Town, with a job that allows me the flexibility to follow the swell migration and the time to write about my experiences. I hope this might quell my budding existential thoughts while at the same time providing me with a platform to combine my love for surfing with my interest in writing.

Surfing will be the fibre that strings my posts together, a commonality across several diverse themes. So, if you’re into that, stick around! Otherwise, go in peace, enriched by the knowledge that skunked is a verb and Skunky Town is a place beyond myth and legend!

GLOSSARY

Skunked

verb

1 To go on a surf trip that produces low-quality, underwhelming surf, in spite of a promising forecast. “ juss bru, we’ve really been skunked.”

noun

2 INFORMAL – DAVE ARMSTRONG SPECIAL

The environment or headspace that only a serious skunking can leave you in. “we’ve just touched down in Skunky Town!”

Setup

noun

1 The physical shape and structure of the bay, seabed or cluster of rocks that forms a particular wave and causes it to break in a certain way. "J Bay really is the perfect setup."